“I don’t like Chardonnay, but I love Chablis.”
Sound familiar?

Chardonnay’s reputation took a hit in the 1980s, when big, buttery, oak-heavy styles were all the rage. The ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement caught on, and the grape is still dismissed by many today. But is it fair to write Chardonnay off as just oak, oak, and more oak?

Absolutely not. Chardonnay is one of the most versatile white grapes in the world. Its style depends on three things: the winemaker, the climate, and the terroir. It can be lean and mineral (hello, Chablis), or bold and tropical (think California). It’s the ultimate winemaker’s grape.

A Quick Introduction to Chardonnay

Born in Burgundy, Chardonnay is now grown across the globe — often seen as a “rite of passage” for winemakers because it thrives in so many conditions. The grape itself is relatively neutral, which means it reflects the place it’s grown and how it’s made.

It’s also at the heart of sparkling wine. Champagne, Franciacorta, English fizz — all rely heavily on Chardonnay. Blanc de Blancs is made entirely from it, while Blanc de Noirs blends often include a good portion too, as well as Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Despite its ’80s backlash, Chardonnay remains the world’s most planted white grape, with over 210,000 hectares worldwide. Clearly, it’s not going anywhere.

Why Does Chardonnay Taste So Different?

Chardonnay is adaptable, ripening early in cool regions like Burgundy while thriving in warm, sunny valleys. That flexibility makes it a winemaker’s playground.

It’s also one of the few white grapes that shines both oaked and unoaked:

• Oaked → vanilla, toast, butter, smoky depth.
• Unoaked → crisp, citrus-driven freshness.

That signature buttery flavour comes from malolactic fermentation, which softens sharp acidity into a creamy, rounded texture. Lees ageing (resting on spent yeast cells) can add richness and flavours of brioche, biscuit, or nuttiness. And of course, oak barrels themselves — new or old, French or American, lightly or heavily toasted — all shape the wine in different ways.

The result? Almost endless possibilities.

Regional Expressions

Chardonnay is a globetrotter — and its style shifts dramatically depending on where it’s grown. Think of it as the same voice with different accents.

• Chablis (France): Crisp, mineral, citrus-driven. Oak rarely used.
• Burgundy (France): From approachable, fruity Mâconnais to the nutty richness of Meursault and the elegance of Puligny-Montrachet, this is Chardonnay at its most complex.
• California (USA): Sunshine in a glass. Napa and Sonoma give ripe tropical fruit and buttery oak, though cooler coastal sites now lean fresher and leaner.
• Australia: Once known for heavy, buttery styles, regions like Margaret River and Yarra Valley now balance ripe fruit with lively acidity.
• South Africa: Stellenbosch and Walker Bay deliver citrus and stone fruit layered with oak and minerality.
• Chile: Cool coastal spots like Casablanca and Limarí produce zesty, salty-edged Chardonnays perfect for seafood.
• New Zealand: Often overshadowed by Sauvignon Blanc, but producing crisp, citrusy wines with thoughtful oak use.
• England: A rising star for both sparkling and still Chardonnay. Bright acidity, green apple, citrus — precision and elegance.

Flavour Profile at a Glance

Here’s a cheat sheet:

• Cool climate → citrus, green apple, minerality.
• Warm climate → peach, pineapple, mango.
• Oaked → vanilla, toast, butter, nuttiness.
• Unoaked → fresh, zesty, fruit-forward.

Think of it as a flavour compass: climate and winemaking choices point the way to what’s in your glass.

Current Trends & Fun Facts

• From butter bombs to freshness: The oak-heavy styles of the ’80s sparked the ABC movement. Today, fresher, mineral-driven Chardonnays are back in vogue, with oak used more thoughtfully.
• England on the rise: Still Chardonnays from England are gaining serious recognition, offering precision and freshness that echo Chablis.
• The chameleon grape: Few varieties match Chardonnay’s versatility — it can be lean or lush, Old World or New World, sparkling or still.

Final Sip: Chardonnay, Reconsidered

Chardonnay isn’t just oak and butter — it’s one of the most adaptable grapes in the world. From razor-sharp Chablis to lush Californian pours, it wears countless disguises. Whatever your style, there’s a Chardonnay for you.

Next time you open a bottle, pour two side by side — oaked vs. unoaked, Burgundy vs. California, young vs. aged. You might just discover why this so-called “misunderstood” grape is still the world’s favourite white.